Protecting the Flower Garden

Numerous insects and diseases attack flowering plants and regular spraying or dusting is an essential around the home to the maintenance of blossom. Flower beds should be hoed or cultivated regularly maintain the soil in good shape and to keep weeds down. Don’t use fertilizers high in nitrogen for flowering plants. Leaf growth is stimulated by high nitrogen fertilizers and blooms will be sparse. Green Cross Lawn Green is excellent for feeding flowers.

The following are a few tips to successful growing of the flowering plants given below.

Chrysanthemums: These bushy plants add rich color to the late summer and fall garden. Plant in well drained sunny locations and fertilize frequently. Open, sunny locations prevent losses from mildew. Plants should be staked. Larger blossoms can be produced by pinching off a number of the lateral buds. Cultivate and fertilize. Spray or rose spray or dust regularly to control mites and insects, using blossom.

Plant bulbs 5-7 inches deep and 8-12 inches apart in the fall. Use of bone meal is beneficial. Setting all bulbs at the same thickness will produce flower stalks of length. Narcissi and daffodils should be left until too crowded in the ground lifted, divided and replanted.

Tulips: Tulip beds are somewhat crowded following three years and so bulbs should be lifted and reset. Young bulbs can be planted to increase their size. Bone meal worked into the soil under the bulbs will permit the bulbs to bloom year after year.

Hyacinths: Plant bulbs 6 inches deep and 6-8 inches apart in early October.

Large varieties should be spaced and types. Tubers should be placed so that the “eyes” are approximately 4 inches below soil level. Dig the tubers after the tops have been frost-killed from the fall and clip the tops near the crown, but not flush with it off.

Delphinium: Can be planted in groups together with the plants 2 feet apart from the group. Root clumps need to be set in ridges or hills, above ground level. New ones appear in the fall if spikes are cut back after bloom.

Gladiolus: “Glads” should be planted when trees start to leaf out in the spring, placing the bulbs 4-5 inches deep and 6-8 inches apart. Planting could be carried through to June to get an extended flowering period. Bulbs replanted along with the found on the old ones and can be dug in the fall. Heal bulbs with and insect powder, dusting.

Phlox: These are best planted in shady locations, as blossoms tend to fade in sunlight. While in gardens , single colour classes show to advantage, in borders, color groups should be separated. Overhead watering in the evening favors mildew.

Iris: Iris like the japanese iris are best planted in the spring or just after blooming, as this gives them an opportunity to establish themselves before the fall. Plant 10-18″ apart depending on the effects desired. Divide the clumps when the centers become overly crowded and the growth feeble. Do not use fresh of even manure to iris. The Iris Borer can be a pest, weakening or killing the plants. Weekly treatments of malathion sprays from early spring till just before bloom will give control.

Begonias need a soil with high humus content and a great deal of moisture. As the blossoms face in the same direction as the leaves always plant them with the leaves. Place about 6 inches apart. The stems are brittle, so the ones should be staked and tied to prevent wind damage. Dig tubers and store them in vermiculite or peat. If exposed they will not keep. Store in cool part. Until the weather has warmed up, Start in pots indoors in early spring and do not set out in the garden and all danger of frost is past.

Petunias: These popular annuals do best in full sun. They thrive in soil types, but for maximum impact they need to be planted in , rich soil that is well prepared.

There is far more to explore on the subject of Japanese iris care. Today you too can take advantage of our years of expertise, visit

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